Mending

Mended Underwear, 2017 

This morning I set about mending underwear-- bloomers that are wonderful to wear with dresses and skirts. I've sewn a few pairs over the years--for winter using soft merino wool and in finely ribbed cotton jersey for summer, trimmed with lace (see photo). Good design, good material--worth mending! 

The channel that holds the elastic at the waist had come unstitched in incremental sections on two pairs. A third pair of bloomers had a couple small runs in the lightweight knit fabric, leaving horizontal lines of thread like a ladder missing the vertical threads. Usually when getting dressed in the morning, extracting one of these pairs of underwear from the drawer I'd notice the flaw and reflect, "this needs repair." Meanwhile they were wearable.

Yesterday I washed three yards of navy blue linen fabric in warm water to pre-shrink it and added the unmended bloomers to the laundry load. Hanging them to air dry overnight, the cotton jersey fabric was slightly crisp in the morning, a perfect texture for sewing. Swapping the red thread in the sewing machine to black, I alternated between a zigzag stitch to close the gaps in the elastic channel and a straight stitch to repair the runs in the material (sewing a virtually undetectable fisheye dart to encase the fray). With a few snips of thread it was done! Kind of cathartic.

Parapet: the Edge of Style

From the wardrobe I've made I find myself gravitating toward certain garments. This skirt and the white linen shift worn with it are a semi-uniform. The silk covered corset/ pair of stays is newly completed.

The first skirt of this design was paired with a slip. The next incorporated a lining. This version has a deep ruffle added to the lining's lower edge, widening the circle of the hemline when the skirt is worn. An additional development was to come...

A long skirt amplifies movement and cozily blankets one's legs when one is seated. Nevertheless climbing up and down subway stairs required lifting this long skirt's hem--graceful or a bit of a nuisance depending upon whether or not my hands were already full. (In tandem with living in a pedestrian city with fluid public transportation is the tendency to tote along a day's worth of provisions, pack-mule-like.) It's awkward to raise the skirt an inch or two off the ground when carrying packages. Eventually solved the dilemma: bustled the skirt!

Detail: Ribbon Tie at Front Shoulder

Photograph: Robert Lucy, 2015

The pair of stays (i.e. corset) evolved from a previously made pair. Recently had modified the original in ways that made it unexpectedly comfortable and wonderful to wear. Those adaptations are present in this pair. Seen here is the marine blue silk taffeta exterior. But this pair is reversible! There's scarlet silk taffeta on the other side. It's structure is comprised of eighteen steel bones inserted into channels in a muslin core. There are thirty hand sewn eyelets. At the most rapid each eyelet took about 10-15 minutes to sew. Many subway journeys were spent sewing eyelets and hand-stitching the edge binding over the course of three months. Decided to modernize and grommet the front lacing holes of which there are twenty-two. Wearing this I feel utterly myself.

Cut from the Same Cloth

Muslin is a woven cotton cloth. Unbleached it is the color of pale sand. Available in several weights, it is frequently used for creating a prototype of a garment, also called a

muslin

.

Details are worked out in the muslin. This requires that one use material with properties similar to the fabric in which the garment will ultimately be made, such as elasticity and weight.

A few years ago found pale rose, shallow ribbed merino wool at an excellent price. Bought yards of it. It has served as a

muslin for many projects to be sewn in a knit fabric. Note similarities between the long sleeve tee pictured here and in the

post below

? The construction of the cuffs, the cut of the armsyce (where the sleeve meets the body) as well as the finishing details for the neckline and hem were developed in this fabric. Soft, warm and with the natural stretch of wool jersey it's also ideal for long underwear. It's a wardrobe staple!

Cut from the same cloth: long johns, bloomers, a long-sleeve tee [wearing it as I write] and heck, socks.

Foundations

In a sort of inverse to spring cleaning, am shedding leaves (of paper) and mulching (metaphorically) garments as autumn descends.

Have treasured letters from lengthy correspondences with friends near and far. Prior to the ease of email the arrival in the post of an airmail envelope and a foreign stamp generated excitement and warmth. Leaves of paper were handwritten then folded, traveled a distance to where they were unfolded and the words slurped up. Glorious.

Undeniably there is ample room in a lifetime for a multitude of friendships. These collected letters are cobblestones along the path. A celebratory bonfire is more appropriate than a dustbin.

Bra in Blush Lace (with black straps), 2014

There is always room for metamorphosis in attire. The season of layering has begun. Am in the mood for that which is...

Sparkling.

Soignée. 

Elegant.

These qualities in mind, have discarded some clothing and made more lingerie.

It is early morning. The pleasant fragrance of toast from a neighboring apartment wafts in. Birds that have yet to migrate are chirping in a community of song. It is a less riotous sound than a summer morning brings. Bra and birdsongs, the foundations of a day?

Lingerie and Lemonade

Fancied new lingerie. Lace. Was headed to the Garment District.

En route popped into a textile trade show. Looked at neatly displayed samples of lace in a manufacturer's booth. Chatted with the sales representative (about laundering the lace, its elasticity). The three day expo was closing. She and her colleagues had hundreds of samples to pack. She spontaneously offered that I should take samples of the lace to try. Thought about which pieces would be useful. Chose a swatch of wide white galloon lace. (Galloon lace has a decorative scalloped border along the top and bottom edges.) There was a black piece too--both with stretch. Perfect for lingerie!

Barely any scrap of white lace remained once it had been patterned, cut and sewn. Combined the black lace with cotton for a different style.

Moonstone Lace Lingerie. (Nylon, cotton) 2014

Buying has its merits, yet there's an intangible joy in making. With a desire to share the benefits was practically singing, "I want to teach the world to sew...(tra-la)."

Yesterday passed by a stoop sale. A seven year old boy was pleading with his mother (who was selling the wares) to let him go to the corner deli to buy lemonade. She was explaining to him that he was too young to go on his own.

An hour later walked by the stoop sale on the way home. The boy was drinking lemonade from bottle with a straw. He was smiling widely, his grin extending on both sides of the straw. His mother had relented. To the boy that lemonade must have tasted better than any other. It was flavored with independence. To make what one wears has a similar essence.

(The background in the photos? Fuchsia fabric draped over the ironing board.)

Sketching A Corset

Sketches for a Corset, 2013

More than a decade ago after a year of searching from afar for an apartment in New York City that fit my budget, moved sight unseen into a tiny, tiny sublet in SoHo. It looked out over a churchyard providing a view of sky and trees, and against its amber-hued brick wall, of photoshoots with fashion models posing for photographers. Within hours of arriving in the city had found a job. Early that evening walking along Lafayette Street joyful and reflective, urgently wanted to write about what I'd come to understand that day. With everything in boxes, had left the apartment with neither a pen nor paper. What to do? Turned toward a woman who was walking along the same stretch of pavement. "Pardon me," I began and asked whether she happened to have a pen or pencil to lend momentarily--and oh, a scrap of paper? Explained that I'd an idea I wanted urgently to write. 

She rested her large messenger bag on the trunk of a parked car. From the bag she extracted a fresh yellow legal pad and a pen. "Keep them," she said handing them to me, "I know how that is!"

As ideas churn, will draw or write on any available paper--the back of a business card or receipt, a random flyer, in the margins of a newspaper or the inside of an envelope. Began recently to carry a 3x5 pad of post-its. Sketches made at various times are easily assembled later into a group. Am playing with ideas for an Edwardian corset now in progress.

Corset Detail

Detail: Corset Back

A Victorian corset. Gradually almost all the overhead lights in this lovely brownstone flat ceased to function. Practically a Victorian night scene: hand-stitching the corset binding by lamplight, wearing a long chemise and a woolen shawl. Amused.

The looser a garment, the more one-size-fits-all a pattern is. A corset is the antithesis of a muumuu! It's hyper-individualized according to measurements. (After a day of wearing a corset donning a muumuu is appealing.)

Adventures in Underwear

7 pairs of underwear: silk, cotton, rayon, elastic

Began by making hats. Then underwear. Now there's a mini-stack of underwear in the closet and a hall tree with hats by the front door.

It is happiness-inducing to begin getting dressed each day with handmade underwear!

These are from different years--the deep purple from the initial year, fuschia made last year and printed silk jersey undies assembled this winter using fabric salvaged from cutting long underwear tops.

(Tend to write much more before editing down to the essentials. Ah, the many philosophical musings about self-reliance in draft form!)

Under It All There's Silk

Silk Underwear, 2012

I've a dear mother who is both loyal and critical. (It is criticism in a constructive vein, she'd insist.) She's worn a silk top (photo, with matching undies) since it was made for her and phoned to ask whether I'd sew her another. High praise indeed!

With its warmth and absorbency, silk is beneficial in winter. And when grey skies, shorter days and lower temperatures might lead to the doldrums, the sleek, airy luxury of silk provides elegant armor.

Wore It Home!

Camisole in merino wool, 2011

Was cold in the studio yesterday. Over the summer I'd drafted a pattern for a camisole/undershirt. Having made a number of these in summer weight fabrics it was pretty simple to sew one in light, soft merino wool. There is shirring at the center and the fabric drapes away from the body at the waist. Wore it home!

Thoughts about this project are evolving. More about this to come. Am for now writing and drawing ideas.

(Ah, the photo looks less vivid than the actual setting. The walls ought to be lighter, etc.)

Underneath It All

(Warmth in Winter, 2011)

This winter was a cold one! Have been reading pioneer era literature (children's, young adult and adult) with descriptions of winter and the layers worn to preserve warmth. Winter has been inspiring me to make undergarments. 

Left to right: boy shorts, camisole, bloomers, long underwear, slip, bra.

The Modern Garter

Garter: cotton/lycra, nylon, elastic

Why did garters go out of fashion? Tights, which replace a garter and stockings, are aptly named.

The solution: modernize! Plush garters are sewn to a band of gentle lace and soft jersey with an adjustable hook & eye closure. Here is a modern garter belt. The little bow in the front was a last minute consideration. It is a small detail yet it seemed to balance the design.

Camisole Project...continued

Camisole with lace inset. Cotton/lycra, 2010

Camisole and knickers. Cotton/lycra, 2010

Matching set.

The Camisole

Camisole in cotton with lycra, 2010

The handmade wardrobe needed a camisole. Gathers at the center front for shape. Cross the back straps.

More Lingerie

Softer than ever...

This was the prototype for bras that will be sewn in silk knit. After working with this less costly material, however, it seems impossible that silk could outdo it. It has a luxurious texture and the color is a neutral mossy olive. (Made bottoms to match.)
After sewing the set, I happily discovered there was fabric enough for a second top. The silk jersey can wait!

(Bra top. Rayon with elastic trim, 2009)

Softest Lingerie

Lingerie set: Cotton/lycra, 2009

As much cotton as possible--cotton thread (cotton fibers spun over a polyester core), cotton crochet lace and soft, soft, soft cotton jersey fabric with a little lycra for resilient stretch.

After sewing these, onto making a silk jersey set. How nice to wear everything handmade. Must get to work!