After Drafting a Pattern, the Muslin

Detail: Curved Side Gusset with Sleeve, 2011
A seersucker version of the vintage linen gown is complete. (Wearing it now!) An arrow in the upper right of the photograph illustrates the point where the front panel, the side panel and sleeve meet. (See the previous post analyzing the construction of the vintage gown upon which this pattern is based.)

The seersucker is in place of a muslin trial.  Made a few changes: added a shoulder seam rather than drape the fabric from hem to hem; sewed a front placket, making a v-neck rather than a completely round neckline. Otherwise the design echos the original. Am continuing to alter the pattern a bit, and considering how the sleeves might be enhanced while remaining faithful to the original.
Detail: Neckline 

Design Sketch in Process

Sketches for  Loose Fitting  Dress
A design inspired by a hand sewn vintage linen nightgown. It is simple and remarkable.

Design of the original gown:
• A rectangular panel of cloth, which drapes over the shoulders, runs from the hem of the front to the hem of the back.
• A space for the head is made by eliminating an oval shape at the center. The oval is flatter in back, curved in front, reflecting the shape of the skull.
• The front and back are joined at the sides by a triangular gusset. It is divided at the top into a U-shape. The sleeve nestles  inside the U.

    The stitches are the size of tiny seeds. And like a planted row, spaced evenly. Am full of respect.

    Sleeve Insertion
    Gusset at Side

    Flamenco Skirt, the Flannel Version

    Flamenco Skirt: Cotton, Tulle, 2010
    The first attempt to draft a pattern for this skirt was a couple months ago. It was wearable, yet the resulting skirt was less flow-y than intended. Last week got down to business, drafting another pattern, sewing a muslin, making corrections to the pattern and crafting a summer-weight version of the skirt. Additional fine turning of the pattern meant lots of pencil sharpening and taping this week before cutting and sewing the flannel version. 
    The pattern has three panels (a back, front and side) with six pattern pieces total for three layers of tiers. The lowest tier is flannel (cut separately from the upper panels). The next tier in this version is cut from knit fabric with a layer of black tulle is overlaying it.  (In the photograph the tulle looks almost like a blur.) The design has essentially three different views--the side view with cascading flounces, the front with a diagonal flounce and a longer panel in back giving the illusion of an ankle length skirt.
    The blouse is a repurposed linen sheet. Am embracing the wrinkled aesthetic!
    front view