An article with an interview in the Brazilian online journal Último Segundo.
Been working on a video about making ruffles and it's almost done!
Been working on a video about making ruffles and it's almost done!
Ultimo Segundo, from Brazil
Wash, Dry, Pack
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Drying: merino long johns, silk underwear, silk slip, cotton skirt, sleeveless tee. |
Draped wet laundry over a rack to dry. Then a moment of awareness: This clothing is the work of my hands.
Traveling today. Suitcase holds a handmade wardrobe.
Under It All There's Silk
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| Silk Underwear, 2012 |
I've a dear mother who is both loyal and critical. (It is criticism in a constructive vein, she'd insist.) She's worn a silk top (photo, with matching undies) since it was made for her and phoned to ask whether I'd sew her another. High praise indeed!
With its warmth and absorbency, silk is beneficial in winter. And when grey skies, shorter days and lower temperatures might lead to the doldrums, the sleek, airy luxury of silk provides elegant armor.
Sewing Outdoors
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| Sewing Outdoors |
Despite Brooklyn's magical qualities, I've a craving for nature. Was in Pennsylvania this month where there was a convergence of people close to the heart, a sewing machine, blue sky, bright sunlight, deer roaming in mini-herds and winter's energizing chill. In a borrowed winter coat sat on the porch and sewed, breathing deeply.
Brought mending on the plane. A bag made years ago is now repaired.
Garment Maintenance for Guys
Some photos from last night's Garment Maintenance for Guys.
A couple of the gentlemen grew up in countries where custom sewing has been a way of life for centuries. Yet with the mass production of clothing in factories, they report the tradition is fading rapidly. Jonathan said that in Bangladesh, his country of origin, the change has taken place at hyper-speed; within the last ten years households have ceased to sew garments for all the members of the family.Here are the guys, having taken up a needle and thread for the first time, learning to sew on buttons. The workshop covered a lot of ground! The gentlemen were already resembling tailors by the evening's end.
Travels with Needle and Thread
The good folks over at Brooklyn Brainery have a wonderful space. Join me for Garment Maintenance for Guys on Monday, December 17th. Learn how to sew buttons on shirts and coats with the skills of a tailor.
Last night was at Fixer's Collective where a woman brought in a leather handbag she'd found. It was torn along one seam. Got her started with a whip stitch (a stitch that winds over a seam on the outside like the stripes on a barber shop pole). Then she took over with gusto! An inherent aspect of Fixer's Collective is that while "master fixers" are on hand to help figure out how to do repairs and mends, much of the work is done by the person who brings in their object. She was beaming when she left with a newly repaired bag!
Wore It Home!
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| Camisole in merino wool, 2011 |
Was cold in the studio yesterday. Over the summer I'd drafted a pattern for a camisole/undershirt. Having made a number of these in summer weight fabrics it was pretty simple to sew one in light, soft merino wool. There is shirring at the center and the fabric drapes away from the body at the waist. Wore it home!
Thoughts about this project are evolving. More about this to come. Am for now writing and drawing ideas.
(Ah, the photo looks less vivid than the actual setting. The walls ought to be lighter, etc.)
Bring on da Rain!
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| Raincoat & Hat: nylon with cotton lining Photo: Beth Rudock |
It was raining last week. Walking down the street, stood at the curb waiting for the light to change. "That's a big hat," said a very little boy. His father, looking at me explained, "it's an umbrella hat!" It is!
It has been a challenge to give an impression of what it's like to really dress in a homemade wardrobe. Enter Beth Rudock, photographer. She's capturing the essence of the project.
In the Midst of So Many Projects!
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| Long Sleeve Tee: silk, 2011. |
At 5.30 p.m. the sky was dark and rain was falling. After a day of sewing turned to a garment which had been waiting for completion. It required the resolution of a pattern calculation dilemma. Solved it! Excited anew. Coaxed myself to leave the studio by 7 with the promise: you'll come back tomorrow!
While the pattern was put aside (mellowing for several weeks) worked on sample garments for classes and made a long sleeve tee with raglan sleeves in silk knit. (The Garment District is a dream resource for fabric.)
On the Road
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| Suitcase of Self-made Garments, 2011 |
In Grand Central station, board a train heading north. The Hudson line travels alongside the water. Beyond the city the view thorough the window transforms into a wide expanse of moving river. On the far bank stand masses of trees in lavish color. Have brought mending along and alternate between it and gazing out the window.
When sewing sometimes I listen to stories (Fresh Air, This American Life, the Moth) and music. This is song is both-- it's about sewing!
Coat of Many Colors by Dolly Parton
Bloomers Resurface
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| Wool bloomers (with lace), sweater. Dress, cotton jersey. |
A similar style of bloomers was worn by my grandmother. It might be her influence that initially drew me to make these.
Material Possessions
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| (photo: Beth Rudock) |
Yesterday presented work of the past three years at The Secret City in New York. Was able to answer questions from the audience. It was amazing!
Garments were on display throughout the space: at the front, in the balcony and along the entry wall.
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Introduction (photo: Leah Coloff) |
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| Hats (photo: Beth Rudock) |
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| Blouses (photo: Sarah Beaumont) |
Subway Stitching
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| Using seam ripper on the subway, 2011 |
The jacket is almost completed. Buttons today. (That means buttonholes--ah, precision measuring required.) Next time ought to photograph the process. It's been a month!
Was in a conversation recently with a man who makes shoes. He makes many versions of the same design. He said he was unable to understand anyone who made a few of something and moved on. Hum. To him, perfecting something is done through making many. To me, the learning that happens with one project is carried on to the next design. It's a continuum of a different sort. That said, I generally make several of each design, however, am quick to move on to anything else the weather, occasion or imagination suggests.
Decided to hand stitch the jacket hem. Had previously machine sewn the sleeve hem which then had to be reworked. On the subway yesterday en route to the garment district to choose buttons, unstitched sleeve hems and began sewing them using a catch stitch. [Will photograph to illustrate. It's like music to sew this stitch; all balance and rhythm.] Here's the subway setting! Genius to be able to commute and read or sew.
The Secret City
On Sunday, October 30th I'll be presenting my work at The Secret City in New York. This Wednesday, Bobby Lucy, who curates visual art at The Secret City will be visiting to view the entire scope of the project. Therefore, tomorrow is laundry day!
I'm honored to be invited. The Secret City is a monthly spectacular in celebration of art. The program begins at 11.30 a.m. at 161 Christye Street. I'd be thrilled to see you there!
Molding
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| Detail of Sewn Muslin: Draped Jacket |
Draping a jacket with princess seams. (There must be a better word. Am allergic to writing "princess" seam and always abbreviate it.) The sleeve has a small raised cap with gathers. The collar is a mandarin, however, after draping the collar and sewing the muslin sample (photo) decided against the rigidly classic shape. Light lines on the front indicate the planned collar modification and pins along the princess seam (ugh) indicate another adjustment (1/4"). An experiment: might cut the fabric without retesting this alteration. Perhaps idiotic. Considering the mechanics/outcome.
The French word "moulage" literally means "molding". In fashion-speak it translates as "draping". Molding the drape of the material is the process. There's plenty of pinning too. And marking. Lots o' marking.
Yearn to incorporate two disparate aspects: the decorative and functional.
Custom Wide Brim Hat
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| Wide Brim Hat, 2011 |
Spent the better part of last week making a custom wide brim hat. Part of the time was spent sewing, however, most was devoted to the design process--experimenting with the depth of the crown, altering its curve and adjusting brim width proportionally.
The burgundy material glistens in relation to light, transforming the hat's appearance. A hidden drawstring in the crown lining makes the size adjustable to accommodate wearing one's hair up or down. (Women's hats, unlike those made for men, are often "one size". Before I began making hats for myself the only hats that ever seemed to fit well were men's hats!) With a light twist the brim sweeps up to the left or right.
The woman for whom this hat was designed was wonderful to work with! Love fest.
The burgundy material glistens in relation to light, transforming the hat's appearance. A hidden drawstring in the crown lining makes the size adjustable to accommodate wearing one's hair up or down. (Women's hats, unlike those made for men, are often "one size". Before I began making hats for myself the only hats that ever seemed to fit well were men's hats!) With a light twist the brim sweeps up to the left or right.
The woman for whom this hat was designed was wonderful to work with! Love fest.
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| Flipped Brim |
Machine Repair, Vintage Edition
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| Lee Repairs Sewing Machines |
The sewing machine repair shop on 26th Street is closed although it is mid-day. The door is locked. Flyers for sewing machines printed on black and white copy paper are taped haphazardly to the dusty glass door. The interior is dark. It hadn't crossed my mind it could be closed! I've come to request a part for a machine.
Had received an e-mail: Do you want a "broken" "beautiful old sewing machine?" This turned out to be an early electric model manufactured by Singer. The machine, surprisingly heavy for its size, was oily and covered in a viscous layer of dust. The bobbin thread, waxy and brittle, broke into fragments as it was removed. There were consecutive layers of thread--yellowed white wound over blue, then black thread. [I've done that when bobbins were limited.]
Plugged in the machine. The light worked! Pushed the pedal. The bobbin rocked, the needle moved up and down. Was the machine broken? Wound the bobbin with fresh thread. Threaded the machine. Placed the bobbin in the holder and fitted it into place under the throat plate. Noticed a blunt edge on one arm of the metal bobbin shuttle where typically it would taper to a point. Hum.
On a sewing machine the intersection of the upper thread and lower thread create a stitch. Turned the hand wheel to join the threads. Here was the snag--the threads didn't intersect. Disassembled the bobbin housing, (which provided an opportunity to remove tumbleweeds of dense dark oily lint). The bobbin shuttle was decidedly broken.
A few moments after discovering the repair shop door locked, hear the distinct clicking of a deadbolt shifting position. The door opens and Mr. Han appears, beaming. His repair shop is stacked from floor to ceiling with sewing machines and their components. It has the feel of a mechanic’s garage--dark, oily and full of possibility. The very small space is made even more so by the number of items on shelves, in open drawers, on the floor. There are sewing machines everywhere. And by everywhere I mean...
Had received an e-mail: Do you want a "broken" "beautiful old sewing machine?" This turned out to be an early electric model manufactured by Singer. The machine, surprisingly heavy for its size, was oily and covered in a viscous layer of dust. The bobbin thread, waxy and brittle, broke into fragments as it was removed. There were consecutive layers of thread--yellowed white wound over blue, then black thread. [I've done that when bobbins were limited.]
Plugged in the machine. The light worked! Pushed the pedal. The bobbin rocked, the needle moved up and down. Was the machine broken? Wound the bobbin with fresh thread. Threaded the machine. Placed the bobbin in the holder and fitted it into place under the throat plate. Noticed a blunt edge on one arm of the metal bobbin shuttle where typically it would taper to a point. Hum.
On a sewing machine the intersection of the upper thread and lower thread create a stitch. Turned the hand wheel to join the threads. Here was the snag--the threads didn't intersect. Disassembled the bobbin housing, (which provided an opportunity to remove tumbleweeds of dense dark oily lint). The bobbin shuttle was decidedly broken.
A few moments after discovering the repair shop door locked, hear the distinct clicking of a deadbolt shifting position. The door opens and Mr. Han appears, beaming. His repair shop is stacked from floor to ceiling with sewing machines and their components. It has the feel of a mechanic’s garage--dark, oily and full of possibility. The very small space is made even more so by the number of items on shelves, in open drawers, on the floor. There are sewing machines everywhere. And by everywhere I mean...
Update: Go back to Mr. Han's. The bobbin shuttle he's found is made of a lighter metal alloy than the original bobbin, however, otherwise it is almost identical. Am rather frustrated that Mr. Han calls me "beautiful lady" while asking too much for the part. Prefer professional interaction and a fair price, thank you very much.
More to follow.
A Favorite Method for Marking Fabric
This has always been about the project to make an entire wardrobe. Here, veering off course: a video made in the studio!
Sewing Tailor Tacks from Verysweetlife Studio on Vimeo.
Tailor tacks are a sewn method of transferring specific pattern markings to fabric. They may be used to indicate where a dart is to be sewn, a pocket placed, buttons added and so forth. They take a little more time to make/sew than drawing a chalk mark or using pins as markers, it's true. However, tailor tacks stay put (which cannot be said for pins used as markers) and are precise (unlike chalk which makes a wider line and may "blur" with fabric handling). And when it's time to remove them they slip out with a very gentle pull.
Enjoy!
Umbrella-less
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| Summer rain hat: waterproof acetate, cotton lining, 2011 |
We've had some steamy, rainy days as summer ebbs. A rain hat made previously was warm and practical in cold weather, yet was proving mighty hot in summer!
Using material remaining from a raincoat sewn in the spring, constructed a summer-weight wide brim rain hat with a deep crown (so hair can be worn up underneath).
Love to be without the extra weight of an umbrella! (Maybe come autumn rain will sew a waterproof bag.)
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| Shy tilt of the brim |
Bees Gotta Fly and So Do I!
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| In My Grandmother's Sewing Kit: Bee's Wax in a Slotted Holder |
Been traveling of late. Airplane flights are conducive to working on mending and other hand sewing projects. (Blunt tipped child's scissors make it through security screenings.) Coating thread with bee's wax straightens it and gives it more substance, preventing the thread from becoming tangled as one sews. (Hand sewing has such an ancient vibe!)